travel

Life in Cali (March Update)

Here's a little peak into our world this month - the new, the old and the tasty..

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Cali

So we're pretty settled into life in Cali now. After so many months of dorm rooms and travel, our backpacks stuffed full like fat little pastries, we're actually pretty happy to unpack, slow down and have a 'normal person' routine going on for a while. 

Not that we're becoming too normal or applying for a mortgage anytime soon ...(sorry mum).

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But anyway, as far as big South American cities go, Cali is a really cool, energetic place to live. It isn't the prettiest place in Colombia, but there really is such a lively atmosphere here and such a noticeable rhythm of life amongst the peeople.  Caleños are generally very happy people -  the sun shines bright in Cali and they love to dance salsa, so that's probably why!

The central part of the city is loud, busy and unapolagetically chaotic. The hot streets are paved with vendors selling everything from guarapo (sugar cane juice) to tea towels to little pots of shredded mango.

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We're living in San Antonio, a pretty little barrio in the northern part of the city. This is where most of the hostels are, but it's also got good foodie spots (with tons of vegetarian restaurants), nice street art and independent little shops. There's even a beautiful spice shop (La Bascula) with every spice you can think of and different dhals to choose from.

You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find different spices in Colombia, so we were pretty happy cooks when we found ourselves here!

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 Fermenting

Now we've finally got our own place, we've been going a little crazy with fermenting things! This month we've been making fennel infused sauerkraut, pickled jalapenos, fermented carrots with mustard seeds, preserved limes and kombucha.
We plan on doing some recipes for a few of the above soon, but in the mean time here's our recipe for kombucha

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 Watching

One of the best films we've seen recently is 'El Abrazo de la Serpiente' (The Embrace of the Serpent)- A magical colombian film based around indigenous culture and the beautiful nature of the Amazon. Really reccomend this to anyone interested in traveling or different cultures!

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We also watched the documentary 'Cowspiracy' on Netflix recently... Completely mind blowing and a big eye opener to how the meat/dairy industry is effecting global warming right now. It's co produced by Leonardo Dicaprio and is on Netflix if that's a big enough seal of approval! 

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Writing 

30 days of Journalling via The Messy Heads 

I (Gabby) love the messy Heads blog, a really cool online space for creative, messy, cool women! If you like writing or doing a daily journal, this list of prompts is a really self reflective/fun way to change up your writing for a month! 

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Happy Easter everyone! X

Little Andaman Island

As we rode through Little Andaman Island in the back of a jeep, a small part of us felt like we'd reached the end of the world. And it felt like pure magic, like a true adventure beginning to unfold.

Nowadays it’s rare to visit a place in the world that feels undiscovered, but Little Andaman still feels special in that respect. Its beaches are dramatic in their emptiness, the locals’ huge smiles are warm and genuine…and there isn’t a souvenir shop in sight.

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Despite its name, there isn’t actually much all ‘little’ about Little Andaman – it’s got a big heart, it’s large in size and the boat journey from Port Blair is around 10 hours long. With infrequent boats, no internet, vast rainforest and a few crocodiles (yes, really), this is definitely a place more suited for those wanting to escape the beaten path and feel truly disconnected. And while the longish journey and remote location puts a lot of tourists off, we practically skipped onto our boat and could have stayed forever more…

So here’s more about our favourite place we’ve ever been to and the kindest souls we had the pleasure of meeting…

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Blue View 

Our 10 day stay on Little Andaman was partly so great due to the home we made at Blue View Resort. Run by possibly the happiest and friendliest man in the whole of India, Bubba, we immediately felt so at home here in this basic but extremely welcoming hostel.

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There aren’t a lot of accommodation options on Little Andaman and on the first few days of our stay there were only 4 other tourists on the whole island. But while most of the hostel options are aesthetically similar, Bubba’s real priority is creating a contagiously happy and relaxed atmosphere for his family of guests. And it works so well. Our simple beach hut cost just 100RS (£1) per night with shared toilets, but more importantly we have incredible memories simply hanging out here with new friends and delicious food.

There were also 4 puppies clambering about the place during our stay…making hammock time even sweeter!

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Highlights: Butler Bay, Big Waterfall, The Lighthouse

There is a lot to explore on Little Andaman, from empty beaches to waterfalls to sweaty jungle trekking. These were our favourite three spots:

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Butler Bay

Butler Bay is the most famous beach on Little Andaman – a dreamy turquoise bay tucked away behind the forest. Despite being the island’s main attraction, we only saw around 2 other people on the beach during all our visits. This is also a great spot for surfing – boards are available to rent on the island if you ask at your accommodation. We opted for the sloth-like option and buried ourselves in books and mangos.

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The Big Waterfall 

The Island has 2 main waterfalls, helpfully referred to as the little and big waterfalls. We heard great things about the latter (official name: Whisper Wave Waterfall) and found ourselves flung into a day-long adventure getting there on our first full day. Located deep into the jungle, getting there yourself requires renting a motorbike/moped, driving on tricky terrain for 1-2 hours and then over an hour trek in the jungle. As you can imagine, it feels like quite an achievement finally arriving there, and it's worth it to see this beautiful waterfall and its surroundings.

It is possible to rent a guide to get you there, but we really enjoyed the journey and it was a great day trip with a few people. It sound obvious, but make sure to get clear directions before you leave! Annoyingly we didn't bring our camera, but trust us, it's cool! 

Lighthouse Beach

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Near the islands' lighthouse lies the favourite bit of beach we visited. White sand and crystal clear, shallow water make this place seem almost unreal. I definitely had to pinch myself when we arrived here...

There's also some really beautifully rugged beaches on the road past the jetty, so we recommend exploring there!

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Food

The food on Little Andaman was one of our favourite parts of Island life – with endless fresh coconuts, incredible fish and classic Indian dishes. Mainland India is a very cheap place to travel, but Little Andaman was even cheaper.  Any place where fresh fish fry costs 60RS (60p) and mangos are 30RS (30p) for a kilo (!) is our version of paradise. Oh and you can find small lobsters for 120RS (£1.20)!

Hut Bay is the main place to get food on the island but, weirdly, most places close during lunchtime hours (12 onwards). Everywhere begins to open again from 3pm onwards, so it’s best to adjust your mealtimes accordingly and buy lots of snacks!

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Some of the nicest memories we have are from this special island and it's warm-hearted people. For more island life, check out our posts on Neil Island and Ross Island.

Bogotá, Colombia: Part 1 (Plaza de Mercado Paloquemao )

Our idea of a perfect morning would most likely involve breakfast in bed, hot cacao and a wander through a local food market. So after reading about Bogotá's Plaza de Mercado Paloquemao, we couldn't wait to get there and experience true tropical fruit paradise...

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In terms of fresh produce, Paloquemao has just about everything you could imagine... plus plenty of new, amazing fruits to discover! We spent our morning dreamily wandering around the stalls, buying ingredients and feeling like we'd been thrown into a wonderful explosion of colour. 

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True avocado heaven! 

True avocado heaven! 

As well as all the fruit and vegetables, there are also a few small health stalls selling things like bee pollen, Aloe Vera leaves, moringa, quinoa and more! As well as our bags of fruit and veggies, we picked up some local herbs and fresh chamomile for making tea.

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If you're in Bogotá, we definitely recommend heading here to see the incredible displays and do some people watching over a fresh juice. Our favourite combination is banana and passion fruit! The market is located on Calle 19, #25 - 04. 

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For more foreign market inspiration, check out our Indian market experience in Pondicherry here!